Keeping Austin Weird: 78704
Beverly Hills isn’t the only community with a zip code that has more meaning than just an identified geographical boundary. 78704, has come to symbolize a lifestyle, diversity of
social and ethnic strata, and active neighborhood coalitions in South-Central Austin, Texas. The zip code can be seen on bumper stickers and proudly affixed to local retail stores and eateries lucky enough to be located within its boundaries. This area can be defined as the neighborhoods that lie south of downtown, west of I-35, north of Ben White, and west of Barton Creek. Newcomers are forgiven if they have a hard time figuring out what this place is all about. You see, at one time it was thought to be nothing but hicks and was known as the “Auto Parts Capital of the World.” Its mascot was the rooster, as many yards were home to not just cats and dogs, but also roosters and goats. Later, probably in the 80s, slackers and artists found South-Central Austin to be a great place to rent a ramshackle bungalow and you were just as likely to find strange art pieces in front yards as Camaros. To say that today’s South-Central Austin supports an eclectic citizenry would be a major understatement. But there is definitely a concern that the oddball population is being pushed out by newcomers, who want to live in this unique place.
Bubbas
This district is home of Austin American-Statesman columnist John Kelso’s infamous “Bubba.” Bubba, I think, is to the rest of the country synonymous with “redneck” and can usually be found in the South. South Austin’s Bubba, which shares a cosmic bond with Bubbas in other locales, are reported to be less cultured than the folks in North Austin and find immense pleasure in parking their pickup trucks in the front yard and sitting on the porch emptying bottles of Lone Star or Pearl. South Austin encompasses an area much larger than just the 78704 district, but certainly this South-Central area is home to many Bubbas. In an liberated billboards to the omnipresence of people on bicyles, this is a community of active people. Walking in the Bouldin Creek Cafe on the corner of West Elizabeth Street and South First, you are bombarded by dozens of flyers, zines, and posters. Is there any cause that does not have some form of representation in South Austin? Walk down a shady, South-Central Austin street and you see flyers stapled to street posts that not only ask if you’ve seen a missing pet but also ones that encourage you to attend the upcoming International Socialist Organization meeting. Bobos (Bourgeois Bohemians) have also found the 78704 area to be hospitable. You can often find them in the newer homes–the ones that have been constructed to “blend in” to the neighborhood and resemble modern, vinyl-clad reproductions of mid-20th Century bunglows. The ubiquitous Range Rover or decade-old, blue Volvo station wagon can be found in the driveway. The cars will usually have environmental organization’s
stickers on the bumper or window, such as World Wildlife Fund or Save Our Springs Alliance.
Gentrification
Not too long ago some new houses were being developed across the street from my friend Stan’s apartment on Johanna. Walking past them one evening I noticed that someone had spray painted “This is what gentrification looks like” on the wood frame. Merriam Webster define gentrification as “the process of renewal and rebuilding accompanying the influx of middle-class or affluent people into deteriorating areas that often displaces earlier usually poorer residents.” It is an issue that troubles many in the area. On one hand, the new development promises to bring more restaurants and shopping opportunities to South-Central Austin residents. The increased density brings a sense of urbanism and people from California and the East Coast that may have different perspectives. Further, property owners can expect their property to go up in value. On the other hand, these property owners must pay higher taxes on their property. The biggest criticism to this phenomenon is the displacement of the original settlers of the area. People are angry about the irony that the people (Hispanics,
blue collar workers, musicians, artists, etc.) who created the high “quality of life” that the 78704 area enjoys are being forced to relocate because of the escalating cost of living. Personally, this is a tough one for me. I love to see affluent whites move back to the city. But I certainly can understand the frustration of those that saw their rent go up $300 in one year.
South Congress and other unique places to shop and eat
The South Congress corridor is home to coffee shops, restaurants, antique stores, thrift stores, and other quirky boutiques. Nearby residents are adament that these independent businesses are not pushed out for corporate chains. The marquee of the Austin Motel reads “No Additives, No Preservatives, Corporate free since 1938″. During the light rail vote of November 2000, you could see “Say no to light rail” posters in most of these establishments. Business owners were worried that rail access would increase the popularity of the strip and drive up their rents, thus resulting in a corridor that would be dominated
by chains.
Something that I have noticed about a few small South-Central Austin businesses is how they will convert the former sign in front of their business into a piece of art. For example, 503 coffee shop on Oltorff has a pole in their front parking lot that has been transformed to a giant coffee mug. Another place is Prima Dora, next to the Magnolia Cafe. They have a pink tulip sculpture in the front. You can tell by the concrete base and the old, black post that flower is fixed to, that they have just taken advantage of what was already there instead of creating the entire thing from scratch.
Etc.
You could spend hours writing about all the interesting South-Central Austin destinations. I’m sure you could spend days writing about some of the stories and people that have made this an inimitable Austin community. The neighborhood coalitions, such as the Bouldin Creek Neighborhood Association,
Dawson Neighborhood Association, and South River City Citizens,
the Travis Heights organization that was established in 1913, are vigilant in preserving the character of the district. I attended a Bouldin Creek Neighborhood Assoc. meeting the other day and was impressed to see the feisty, diverse group in action. The meeting was attended by landowners, elderly women, students, and anyone else you can imagine that believes they have an obligation to shape South-Central Austin’s destiny.
And how could I forget spring-fed Barton Springs, the city’s most popular swimming destination? The “sacred springs”, located in Zilker Park, are enjoyed year round and have a consistent temperature. Sarah commented today that she has never seen a more well-used park than Zilker and I am inclined to agree. On any given day there are soccer games, picnics and BBQs, runners, frisbee golfers, etc. The kids can also ride the
Zilker Zephyr, a liquid propane-fueled miniature train.
In the two years that I have lived in South-Central Austin, I sometimes feel more like an observer, watching how the locals behave, rather than feeling like a real part of the community. Maybe its because I know that Sarah and I will be moving on from Austin after she gets her PhD in a few years. Or it could be that as a newcomer, I realize that to many, I am an example of a young person that has come to soak up what the area has to offer, but don’t
plan to stick around–thus there may be a bit of resentment. Regardless, I still love living south of the river and cherish its alleys, streams, yard art, Hispanic influence, indie businesses, and other things.
Learn more about South-Central Austin:
South Austin Secede! an Austin Chronicle article by Rob D’Amico
Austin del Sur lots of information and links